Can You Use Sewing Thread For Beading? The abundance of beading thread accessible right now is incredible. It can be difficult to choose the right one just for your design.
In the case of bead-stringing designs, you have a variety of choices. There are several high-quality threads available to assist you in creating beautiful, long-lasting jewelry.
Monofilament thread and Nylon based threads are the two types of beading thread currently available. It’s pretty easy to see the difference between the two.
Comparison Table Can You Use Sewing Thread for Beading
A nylon-based thread has a similar feel to sewing threads and is usually packaged on a short spool or bobbin. Nymo was the only nylon-based beading yarn that was widely available previously. It goes without saying that there are many brands available.
There are minor variations between the companies, but many of them are easier to ‘feel’ by perception rather than explain. Any time a new thread is introduced, the maker will say that it is thicker, less unlikely to tangle, so on and so forth.
A beader’s experience with a specific beading thread can differ from that of another beader. A lot of that has to do with emotional stress or the beads you’re working with.
There are a few facts about the nylon beading thread which you should be aware of. To begin with, it resembles sewing thread or cotton in appearance and feels. It means that it drapes similarly, except that it knots and tangles if you aren’t cautious, or even if you are.
Nylon beading thread is more prone to breaking, particularly when stitching thread beads with sharp edges, such as bugle beads or crystals. While KO thread is slightly stronger than nymo, we still suggest using Fireline or some other monofilament thread when dealing with bugles and crystals.
Nylon threads are vulnerable to knotting and tangling, and it is extremely difficult to reverse the knots after they have formed. A nylon-based thread is also easy to break because if you’re doing several passes through that kind of bead, you’ll quickly notice that the existing thread has split when you introduce the current pass.
This isn’t a big deal until you need to undo something, in which circumstance undoing via the broken thread can be difficult. Splitting thread is often a common consequence of stitching; when you’re using a long stretch of thread, this will run through beads many times that this will start to break or fray near the end.
If this occurs, you’ll need to shorten the thread to remove the broken area. Every thread that has broken is softer and more prone to breaking, which means the beadwork will be weaker as well.
Since nylon beading threads have natural stretch, it’s a smart decision to cut your required length of threads and then expand it by taking one side in each hand and extending your arms high, then tugging on it.
The best part is that you can use a thread conditioner or beeswax to treat nylon thread. This protects the thread against tangling and breaking by coating it.
The fishing line is basically what a monofilament-based thread is. Someone along the road had the brilliant idea of experimenting with fishing lines, which was later turned into what we use today.
Monofilament-based threads don’t drape as much as nylon-based threads, but when you first start using them, it can seem as if they have a life of their own alongside you as you draw them through the beads. This thread has a lot of advantages if you can get over the weirdness of the sensation.
Since it lacks the natural stretch of nylon-based threads, it aids in the development of good tension. If you’ve taken the thread all the way in, it stays put and doesn’t spring up. This is particularly useful when using Netting or Right Angle Weave.
The Fireline is also very difficult to break. So, other than occasional rogue threads, you’ll find your thread snapping very rarely. Monofilament thread is less likely to knot.
It will tangle and wrap itself into small knots and loops as you operate, but these are normally easy to fix and do not seem to degrade the thread.
Fireline is the most common brand of beading thread. It comes in a variety of weight-based weights, most common of which is 4 lbs. and 6 lbs. That weight means the maximum load that the thread can withstand before breaking.
The 4 lbs. weight is good for most projects because you’re most likely going to use it for bead weaving, where each individual thread only supports one or two beads, rather than strings, for which the weight of every bead is significant.
Some people like a 6 lbs. thread. This is marginally heavier, but if you’re going to be dealing with small seed beads, such as size 15/0, then you should go with the 4lb.
Different beaders would recommend different ways to complete Fireline. Some claim it’s best to weave the thread into your beads without first finishing off so it does not really knot as well. Others, enjoy knotting around beads with it. You will hear warnings about knotting the threads to finish or start it will cause this to snap.
Monofilament beading threads are far more costly than nylon-based beading threads, which deters some people from using them. Nevertheless, if you’re convinced of all other benefits and want a beading venture that will last, the additional investment can be justified.
Bottom Line: Can You Use Sewing Thread For Beading?
Every beader finds love in a specific brand of yarn, so if you’re just starting out, test a couple of them. If you’d like to try first before you purchase, beg a stretch from a friend at some beading community or from a workshop.
If you’re unsure, ask the store manager to inform you a little something about the beading thread. At the very least, those tips will ideally help you realize what you’re being advised.